Hi all,
This is the result of my corner balance. I’ll probably install GT3 lower front control arms or upper camber plates to get more to a -2 degree camber angle for slightly more aggressive track driving and to support track tires.
Cheers
Aaron
Archive for the ‘General’ Category
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Well today was the day, after almost a full month, that I got my car back on the road…. first impressions, wow what a difference.
I took it to the guys at Scan Automotive and they did an amazing job at correcting my mistakes and getting the car setup just perfect. It would have been better if I put in the front adjustable upper camber plates so they could have done it more the way they wanted so that may be a future upgrade I’ll be doing.
I’ll update this post later with all the specs on how the corner balance alignment was done and some new pictures of the car now that I can take it to a proper location.
Again, big shout out and thanks to James at Scan Automotive for doing such a great job finishing off this project and getting me on the road!
Cheers
Aaron
Hi all,
Just a quick post to show a few images after the wheels and brakes were done and the suspension was put in and I got it back on the ground… As you can tell the suspension needs to be setup for heights, etc and its going in next week for that… can’t wait to test drive it.
I like the results personally:
Cheers
Aaron
Hi all,
Just wanted to post a quick picture of the piece that is needed from a busted front 996TT axle to have an ABS pickup that fits in the wheel carrier as the C2 one is too large.
——— EDIT ————
Finally got the ABS pickups I needed from a fellow 6speed member that had a Turbo that was converted to RWD and was going back to AWD. Both have 48 teeth on them but the size difference is quite noticeable. Here are some pictures, C2 on the left:
—————————-
Cheers
Aaron
Hi all,
I found this information after much searching for GT3 ride height settings. In looking at them, I’m going to go with ROW Sport to start as the car needs to be streetable and I’d like to save some of the life on the rear tires… it will be a starting point anyways.
As taken from: http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=4060
—————–
RoW Sport:
Front ride height: 138mm
Rear ride height: 148mm
(I don’t know how to convert the spring rates (front 170lbs/in rear 260lbs/in)to kN/m…
…so I guessed them)
Front spring rate: 60kN/m
Rear spring rate: 75kN/m
I don’t know the anti-rollbar stiffness but I know the ratio between front and rear – 0.436. (I calculated from it from the table 2) So, if the front stiffness is lets say 35kN/m the rear stiffness is 15.3kN/m.
You can calculate the damper values from the chart 9 and 10. I can’t…
Steering lock:
(911 GT2: ratio: 16.9:1, turns, lock-to-lock: 2.98)
So it’s nearly 32 degrees which is quite low actually…
LSD:
(Again from 911 GT2)
40% power, 60% coast
Camber:
Front -0.5 degrees
Rear -1.25 degrees
Toe-in:
Front ~0.1 degrees
Rear ~0.2 degrees
Tire pressure (for Boxter 17″ wheels):
Front 29psi ->2 bars
Rear 36psi->2.5bars
GT3:
Front ride height: 112mm
Rear ride height: 125mm
I don’t know the spring rates so I guessed:
Front 75kN/m
Rear 90kN/m
Both of them are very stiff but GT3 has very harsh ride I think..
Camber:
Front -1 degrees
Rear: -1.83 degrees
Tire pressure:
Front 32psi->2.2bars
Rear 39psi->2.7bars
Sources:
RoW Sport:
Front ride height: 138mm
Rear ride height: 148mm
(I don’t know how to convert the spring rates (front 170lbs/in rear 260lbs/in)to kN/m…
…so I guessed them)
Front spring rate: 60kN/m
Rear spring rate: 75kN/m
I don’t know the anti-rollbar stiffness but I know the ratio between front and rear – 0.436. (I calculated from it from the table 2) So, if the front stiffness is lets say 35kN/m the rear stiffness is 15.3kN/m.
You can calculate the damper values from the chart 9 and 10. I can’t…
Steering lock:
(911 GT2: ratio: 16.9:1, turns, lock-to-lock: 2.98)
So it’s nearly 32 degrees which is quite low actually…
LSD:
(Again from 911 GT2)
40% power, 60% coast
Camber:
Front -0.5 degrees
Rear -1.25 degrees
Toe-in:
Front ~0.1 degrees
Rear ~0.2 degrees
Tire pressure (for Boxter 17″ wheels):
Front 29psi ->2 bars
Rear 36psi->2.5bars
GT3:
Front ride height: 112mm
Rear ride height: 125mm
I don’t know the spring rates so I guessed:
Front 75kN/m
Rear 90kN/m
Both of them are very stiff but GT3 has very harsh ride I think..
Camber:
Front -1 degrees
Rear: -1.83 degrees
Tire pressure:
Front 32psi->2.2bars
Rear 39psi->2.7bars
Sources:
Hi all,
So I have never been able to find documented proof of the weight changes, etc with this upgrade. So I’m going to weigh all the parts that come off and go on as part of the project and I’ll also include the weight of other things I’ve done to see the total net increase or decrease from my modifications.
Turbo Brake Components and H&R Suspension
- Front Calipers with Pads – 10.5 lbs each
- Rear Calipers with Pads – 8.25 lbs each
- Wheel Carriers with hub and bearings – 21 lbs each
- Front Rotors – 22 lbs each
- Rear Rotors – 18.5 lbs each
- Front H&R Coil Overs with Turbo Camber Plates – 12 lbs each
- Rear H&R Coil Overs – 10.25 lbs each
- 19″ 997 C2S Wheels Front with 235/35/19 Tires – 43.5 lbs each
- 19″ 997 C2S Wheels Rear with 295/30/19 Tires – 56.5 lbs each
Stock Carrera 2 Components and Stock Suspension
- Front Calipers with Pads – 8.75 lbs each
- Rear Calipers with Pads – 6.5 lbs each
- Wheel Carriers with hub and bearings – 13.5 lbs each
- Front Rotors – 19 lbs each
- Rear Rotors – 14 lbs each
- Front Stock Strut – 11 lbs each
- Rear Stock Strut – 10 lbs each
- Stock 18″ Sport Design Wheels Front with 225/40/18 Tires – 42 lbs each
- Stock 18″ Sport Design Wheels Rear with 265/35/18 Tires – 50.5 lbs each
Interior
- Stock Sport Seats (removed) – 42 lbs each
- Euro GT3 Seats with Rails (added) – 28.6 lbs each
- Tequipment Roll Bar – 28 lbs
Conclusions
- Component Weight Prior: 434.5 lbs
- Component Weight Post: 461.6 lbs
- Total Gain/Loss: +27.1 lbs
Weight gain per front corner: 109lbs (Post) – 94.25lbs (Pre) = +14.75lbs
Weight gain per rear corner: 93.5lbs (Post) – 81lbs (Pre) = +12.5 lbs
Cheers
Aaron
Hi all,
Well today in doing an oil change, yes on my own, I had both motor mounts go. My car has 125,000 kms so this is not unusual. So what made them go during an oil change you may ask… simple, jacking the car with the recommended instructions.
What happens is that when you lift the rear of the car by the knuckle on the block and your motor mounts are bone stock, you can end up with a lot of this dark brown hydraulic oil shooting on the floor like a JFK video. Its quite shocking and a mighty mess to deal with.
I actually wasn’t too suprised as I’ve heard of motor mounts going on these cars with my miles, but it still sucked… however, there is light at the end of the tunnel as it means a potential upgrade for the sloshy stock mounts to some more responsive RS mounts: http://carnewal.com/. Now doing this job yourself isn’t that tough as you can see in this (very similar) 993 installation of RS mounts: http://p-car.com/diy/motormount/
In my case however, I have larger issues… first off I have the leaking RMS issue on my car that has been sweating for a year now and is looking more like an oil drip. I also have an old clutch, which I think is actually bone stock. A tidbit of knowledge, when doing the clutch you must replace the flywheel. Well, I guess you can skip the replacement, but it will be more grief than its worth to save a few bucks.
So this is the list you will end up with if you have an RMS:
- Rear main seal replacement/upgrade
- Intermediate shaft upgrade
- Clutch
- Flywheel
I’ve found DIY articles for the RMS here: http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/996rms/rms1.php
Let’s make one thing clear, you can do anything yourself, and I’m ALL for learning how your car works and getting your hands dirty. However, I also need to know when to leave it to a qualified professional. Doing an RMS and the Intermediate shaft upgrade wrong can cause more work than necessary or a $12,000 motor which is probably about 10x how much you may save in a DIY.
So with that, I called my good friend James at Scan Automotive and Dan at Vivid Racing to see some options “while I’m in there”. This is what I’m ending up with:
- Porsche OEM clutch
- Aasco Lightweight Flywheel
- RS Motor Mounts
I’m not about to list prices on any of the parts or labor, so you’ll need to do your own investigations with your local tech and parts suppliers.
So with all that, parts are on order and I should have the car in within the next week or two for a serious amount of maintenance work. It will be a new beast and I’m sure I’ll end up stalling the s%@t out of it trying to figure out how to drive the thing again!
PS Sorry this isn’t much of a DIY thread, but I did supply info on the DIY if you want to be daring and I did change my oil! Which by the way, was Motul 5w40.
Cheers
Aaron
Hi there,
Thank you for visiting my site, perhaps I should start off with a little introduction on who I am and what the purpose of this website is.
Well I’ve been around the automotive industry since I was born as my father is a mechanic and has been a muscle car/hot rod fan/builder/owner since the ’70s. I’ve owned cars from a 1957 Chevy to my current 2001 Porsche 996 C2, an obvious deviation from what I was raised with.
Porsche being as many out there, one of my dream cars, I finally came to owning my first one in mid-2008.
However, being who I am, I can’t leave it stock or keep my hands off it. So let’s start with what it began as:
- 2001 Porsche 996 (911) Carrera 2
- 3.4L, 6-speed manual
- Porsche Stability Management (PSM)
- Factory suspension rigidity option
- Factory optioned complete Aerokit (GT3 look)
- Ocean Blue Metallic
- Graphite Grey Leather interior with full carbon fiber trim package and sport seats
- 18″ Sport Design wheels
- Cruise Control
- HID headlights
Ok, so not too shabby for sure! But I always like to customize things to my liking and was bit by the bug shortly after I received the car into my ownership.
Prior to the decision to make this website, I have completed to following updates to my car on my own including some required maintenance items:
- Schnell front upper strut bar
- Schnell short shifter kit (SSK)
- Tequipment roll bar with cross brace
- Minature PC with 7″ touchscreen in the double din slot
- Replacement of coolant overflow tank (pain in the a$$)
- Replacement of pads and rotors
- GMG Stainless Headers
- Porsche Sport Exhaust (PSE) Modified stock mufflers
- Engine skid plate
Also in my first summer of ownership, I was able to attend a local club Autocross and not only has the modification bug hit but so has the track bug. This is a time consuming and expensive set of circumstances…
Okay, so why are you here? Well I have a list of things to accomplish on my car this winter for next season and in doing a lot of research I decided to make a single site where I will post my modifications, experiences, and where possible how-to information in the event that a fellow Porsche owner wishes to follow in my foot steps.
What’s the list you ask?? Well it is:
- Installation of H&R Coilover suspension
- GT2 front and rear adjustable sway bars
- Agency Power front and rear drop links
- Agency Power rear adjustable control arms
- Upgrade to Turbo brakes
- Installation of Euro GT3 seats
- Install Sparco 5-point harnesses
- Put on 19″ 997 Carrera 2S “lobster fork” wheels with Pirelli PZero Rosso tires (new rears)
- Install laser diffuser
I know, huge list! Parts are in the garage and need to be installed, and winter is the perfect time to put the car up on jacks for a few weeks to make it happen.
So, as I do each project I’ll take pictures and give all the information and sources I can for your reading enjoyment or information for your own projects. Look forward to not only getting my project done but spreading so good information to the community.
Cheers
Aaron
Emerald Apple - Porsche Blog 